Carb syncing tool

[Legends16]

Can anyone recommend a good one that wont break the bank? If so, where did you get it?

Thanks,

Eric

[Earnst85]

http://www.amazon.com/BikeMaster-29-03J-CARB-SYNCHRONIZING-KIT/dp/B005G5QVW0

Seems to be currently unavailable on Bike Master's amazon page, but do a search for it others places.

I believe the amazon price might have been around $100 when I bought it. Looks like other sites like to jack the price way up though.

[vince6b]

Take your pick.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_kw=carburetor+synchronizer+kit+4+carb

[Legends16]

Thank you Vince6b, so you would recommend all of them? 

Seriously though, my search started with ebay but then wanted to see what the legend car guys were all using. Thank you Earnst85 and Mark Ritger for the email. 

So basically there are two types, the bubble type gauges and the actual dial type. Taking a look at some of the photographs I see that some have numbers and some just have hash lines. Whats a good number to tune for? I want to learn how to do this as well as getting the right tool for the job.

[racerrad8]

Here is the unit I offer;

http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Carb%3Asyncpro

Randy - RPM

[vince6b]

I have the type that Randy sells, they tend to bounce a little bit. Never used the gauge type.

[VMS Motorsports]

The gauge type bounces a little bit too, that's what I use.  I think its just a personal preference type of deal

[Earnst85]

On the Bikemaster one that I posted, when the needle bounces, you can turn the connection at the base of the gauge to settle the needles. It makes it very easy to calm them and not have to "guess" what it is reading.

[Gimpster]

Cheapest way to sync carbs would be get a single Uni Sync. I think they are around 30 bucks. Just have some patience and you can get the carbs real close. I have a Hondaline 4 gauge sync set but I dont like the 4 needle gauges. inaccuracy between each 4 needle gauge is beyond my preference but they will get you in the ball park, as will the uni sync. I pass on the motion pro with liquid. Seen too many techs in the past suck the mercury into an engine from mis handling of the gauge set or an engine sneezing when idled down or during throttle blips to settle the adjustment springs and suck the stuff in the engine..but hey, they work, just be aware of its handling and storage.
 Personally, I check motors real quick with a unisync then if fine tuning is required, connect my VacuumMate. Beauty of digital pulse spans are it's diagnostic capability as well as syncro use. Gauges with adjustable restriction devices inline of the hoses eliminate diagnostic capability by eliminating the pulse width.
Pick and choose your meter wisely

~G~

[Legends16]

Thanks guys. I'm a bit of a newb at this stuff and the only carb I've ever touched was the Briggs and Stratton raptor style carb. Are you simply picking a carb and matching its reading to another? Or is there a point to shoot for each one?

I've been talking to a few of my fellow racers and the fact that I would have to buy fluid for the bubble style gauges is a little bit of a turn off. I've searched for the bikemaster gauge listed above but they are selling anywhere from $150 to $200+, that's a bit more then Id like to spend.

Gimpster, do you have a link to the device your are talking about? I never thought of the single gauge. I have time and patience, its not something Id be doing every week.

Thank you everyone.

[justaoke]

http://www.beemerboneyard.com/carbtune4col.html

[Gimpster]

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Uni-Sync-Carb-Syncronizing-Tool-ICT-FRD-Kadron-p/7033.htm

There are other places to buy them.... basically what you want to achieve is to pair the 4 carburetors together. This a handy tool that I have used throughout the powersports industry including marine applications.
The 4 carbs need to paired into 3 sets.. outer to carbs and the center 2 carbs
This tool as pictures is goofy in the link.. the part that is downward is the surface that mates up to the carb inlets after the air filters are removed. The tube to the side pivots 360 degrees, inside the tube is a red slider ball... The piece under the tapered spring is a disc that you adjust once the tool is covering the opening of the carb while the engine is running (good tool to have at the track)
How to use :
- remove air filters
- start the engine
-press the tool against the opening of the front carb
- adjust the center disc outwards (disc near the spring) so the bead jumps up and down
-slowly turn the disc inwards until the point that bead barely stops jumping, there are lines on the tube, take note which line the bead settles at or near
- remove the tool and go to the carb next to the one which was just checked and repeat
- If the beads are not settled in the same place, the synchronize screws between those carbs is seen from the top looking down on the throttle shaft between the carbs (standard screwdriver head)
-Turn the synchronize screw and watch the bead move (the goal is to move the bead so it is settled in the same place on both carbs to pair them up)
- Once the bead is settled around the same line in the tube while checking both carbs..those carbs are paired up
- Now do the same to the rear 2 carbs and once the bead is in the plave in the tube same after adjusting the synchronize screws..that set is paired
- At this point you have the outer carbs paired and you need to pull the 2 pairs together by checking the difference with the gauge between the center 2 carbs.. repeat the process above to the center 2 carbs
-Once all 3 pairs (4 carbs) are the same level of bead setting in the tube when the tool is applied to the carb bore while the engine is running, the carbs are synchronised pretty close if not perfect

Couple of notes... once the center disc of the tool is adjusted to stabilize the bead from the suction pulsesm it should not need to be adjusted much for the other carbs to stabilize the bead.. if a major adjustment in that disc is required you may have a valve or compression issue within that odd cylinder (could be as simple as carbon burnt onto a valve face and holding a valve open)
... you may want to do a compression test before synchronizing carbs to be aware of this type of issue.
... never ever take the carbs off someone elses car and try them on yours.. if they have a cylinder low on compression and the carbs were synchronized on that motor with the compression issue, one butterfly on the carb will close too soon while that set is used on your engine during decel and not be open enough while closer to wide open and will lean out the air fuel mixture on that cylinder causing a melt down of pistons, valves or head gasket.

In case you need further advice, my cell phone number is (701) 290-1600 please call, I would rather help you than see harm done to the engine from the procedure being done improperly

Someone left me an email recently and asked "Hank do you do carbs ?" I did not reply because I am not Hank..Mr Scott is a good friend of mine though that can set you up with an awsome performance carb component kit that will rock your Legend

Thanks

~G~