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Author Topic: Wilwood Brakes  (Read 1694 times)
cruzinlow71
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« on: June 27, 2013, 07:28:14 PM »

Ok, so after reading 11 pages in the other thread I wanted to start a new one fresh. I used my Wilwood's for the first time this past weekend with the Pads that come with the kit. First off I Bleed the system dry of all the old Fluid Front to Rear sucked them dry with a Vacuum pump. I then put the new Front End Kit on then Bleed the Brakes with Fresh Brakeman 5.1 Fluid. I didnt have to readjust my Rear Brakes at all, I liked how the Pedal Felt so figured i'd start there. After the first practice I liked the way the felt on the track they did take a lap to come in but so did my other setup so no change there. When I came in they were squealing pretty good so I jacked up the front and spun the tires to see if there was a bind but they spun way nicer then they did before. So I just figued it must be the Pad with the heat no big deal. In the feature I had to start 19th out of 20 because of the previous weeks win. Im a hard Braker, thats my style so I wasnt really sure what to expect out of the brakes in the longer run with all the traffic. Overall I was really impressed with the system after weekend on it. I worked the brakes really hard for the whole race and I didnt have any brake fade with them or any other funky stuff. I didnt have any brake lock up and I got on them pretty hard a few times to avoid cautions. At the end of the race I finished P2 from 19th but when I came in they were squealing even louder then they were all night before. My questions are is that Normal and Is there a Pad just Slightly more Aggressive that is worth Trying. I like what I have but theres always room for improvement with everything.
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Hyerflyer2
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« Reply #1 on: June 27, 2013, 07:47:02 PM »

I ran the bp 10's that came with the kit  and  wasn't completely impressed with the kit over the brakeman stuff I previously had but then I recently switched to the bp 20 pad I only have 2 races on them  and I like the feel of them and they take a good warming to come in or don't work for a full lap and when they're up to tempature they squeal
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knoxracing
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« Reply #2 on: June 27, 2013, 08:02:57 PM »

We have had the same response to the tee, sounds like a late model squeal when they come in the pits. We have run the stock pad with good luck, although on a 3/8 that does not require hard braking. So to answer, yes we are sqealing too when we apply the brake in the pits after the feature.
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Gimpster
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« Reply #3 on: June 27, 2013, 10:12:35 PM »

 The Wilwoods rock, but as with any performance part, proper pre set-up is a must. I have exparienced all issues you guys are seeing, in other divisions. Mainly when residual valves are used which is not the case here. Biggest step Legends drivers are skipping during the Wilwood upgrade is not machining the rotors before install. Also, 80 grit sandpaper will not cut the mustard for the final sanding of the rotors before install. Second is improper shimming of the pads if an issue is seen. Attempting to shim the pad after the issues are noticed will not cure the problem entirely because the Celica rotors are junk. They are not performance rotors. The rotors are made of a very porous metal. If sanded after cutting with heavy sand paper, the porus metal of the rotors will have valleys and hills in them so to speak and cause heat buildup and chiming. That is the number one cause of the pads chiming when they are hot as these bad spots are amplified. Secondly, when you apply the brakes the brake pads contact the rotor resulting in friction (heat). That heat softens the brake pad compound so you have compound transfer to the rotor. The heated compound actually fills in the soft pores (valleys) of the rotor. After a few stops the brake pads are no longer touching iron, they are touching a thin film of compound embedded into the pores of the cheaply made rotor (not meant for this performance application).
 A few quick tricks to attempt to cure the problem is beveling the leading edges of the pads, sanding the snot out of the rotors with fine sand paper (I have seen guys heat the rotors and then sand them) before use and proper shimming of the pads before the first use. Also after a good hard run, flip the inner and outer pads in the caliper. Rotors may not look warped but the soft castings of these stock rotors will be amplified under hard heat build up and amplify brake issues. INEX rules state no drilling of rotors but most likely this is a cure for hard braking issues that will be amplified with these performance brake calipers. Drilling, chamfering the drilled holes and balancing the rotors should allow any pad compound available out there for these brakes to work on this light chassis thereafter as it will give the generated heat a place to go and allow a cooling area within the rotors.... On the other hand, it does not state that you cannot drill the pads within their rules so maybe that would be a quick relief of some heat along with the beveled leading edge of the pads
The new brakes are sweet but the stock Toyota metal composition of the rotors is improper for this caliber of a caliper... rotors is the issue and if upgraded would be the cure

~Gimpster~



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AKRACER
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« Reply #4 on: June 28, 2013, 10:43:44 AM »

i love the new brakes. im glad to read that im not the only one whos brakes squeel becuase mine do i turned the rotors before instlling the kit and have liked them ever science just the squeel when i come in after the race. i guess after hearing other people on hear that ok at least i will take that as ok from now on. i run a brake man pad not sure exactly which one. also i brake a lot and run circle track.

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